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The Orange Lingerie Blog

The time it takes to sew a project is largely the sum of the time it takes to complete each task. The time it takes to complete each task is primarily driven by body motion, so the more motions that are required, the more time it takes to complete a project. What all this means is that the key to...
Most lingerie sewing involves ¼” seam allowances. These small seam allowances make it easier than the standard garment seam allowances to sew all the curves involved in making lingerie. In fact, if your lingerie pattern has larger seam allowances, I recommend decreasing them to ¼”. Importance of ...
Continuing on with the summer “pro tips” series, today is about marking tools and how to mark your fabric. Marking lingerie sewing pattern pieces is important, especially for bras, since it is not always obvious how the pieces fit together. Accurate marking also makes it much easier to assemble y...
Over the next few months I will be posting a series of tips on how to get great results when you make your own lingerie. In fact, just about all my lingerie sewing tips and tricks can be applied to any sewing project! This week’s tip is all about accurate cutting. Accurate cutting is especially i...
When you find a great print fabric you want to make the most of it! Following are the methods I use in my studio to be sure I use prints to their best advantage. First, you want to be sure to have a complete set of pattern pieces that will be cut from the main fabric. All seam and trim allowances...
If you saw my lace tutorial on the Britex Fabrics blog or my couture camisole you saw one my favorite things to make – spaghetti straps! I learned a great technique to make the perfect straps from Susan Khalje a few years ago and it never fails to produce a beautiful result. Here are the step-by-...
When I wrote about how to fit a bra using a toile (a.k.a. a muslin), I mentioned that the band may initially feel too loose and if so, you should keep it that way and alter it later on if necessary. If the band is still too large once you have attached all the elastics, you can decrease it to get...
If you read my post “The Fastest Way to Find Your Bra Pattern Size” then you know how to quickly find what size bra to sew up. I also mentioned in that post that the most accurate way to test the fit of a bra pattern is to make a toile (also known as a muslin) of the entire bra. The toile techniq...
If you are wondering what size bra to sew you are not alone! I am asked about sizing more than any other topic. The question of bra size is a tricky one since many individuals are not wearing the correct size bra or do not know what size they should be wearing. It is incredibly rare that someone ...
I use a lot of elastic to make lingerie. I mean a lot. It is used for both the upper and lower edges of a bra, the legs and waist of underwear not to mention swimwear and active wear. It seems like I am always sewing with elastic! I have talked about the types of elastic and its purpose before bu...
Since writing my book, I have come up a new and improved way to cut underwires. There is nothing like having a large supply of long wires when I want regular wires to find a better way! Lucky for me I love tools and I was able to draw upon the skills I learned waaaay back when I worked in a hardw...
You know I love a matching set! My latest underwear patterns, the Montgomery brief and the Kingston thong were designed to go create a matching set for the Marlborough bra. With the introduction of the Boylston bra, I still *needed* a matching set. Luckily with just a few pattern and construction...

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