You probably know by now that bra straps are not responsible for providing bust support, (you can read more about that here) yet bra straps do play a role in the overall fit of a bra.
Role of bra straps
Bra straps keep the bra in the correct position on the body. If the straps are too wide and are slipping off the shoulders, they won’t be able to do their job and the bra will start to sag. If the straps are too narrow, you will likely be uncomfortable and the cups may not be providing necessary coverage.
The pattern adjustments required to move the straps inward or outward depends on the bra design. I am going to use my Boylston bra sewing pattern for this tutorial since the design lends itself to easy strap adjustments. These same general principles apply regardless of the bra pattern used.
Straps too wide
To move the straps, we need to address both the front and the back of the bra. There are three steps:
- Mark the outer edge of the desired front strap location. Do this by placing the strap on the pattern and marking the outer edge where the strap meets the upper cup.
2. Redraw the underarm curve on the upper cup to smoothly transition into the outer edge of the strap in its new location.
3. On the back band, redraw the scoop with the topmost point of the band corresponding to the desired strap location.
Straps too narrow
The same steps apply to move the straps further out on the shoulders.
- Mark the outer edge of the desired front strap location. Do this by placing the strap on the pattern and marking the outer edge where the strap joins the underarm area.
2. Redraw the underarm curve on the upper cup to smoothly transition into the outer edge of the strap in its new location.
3. On the back band, redraw the scoop with the topmost point of the band corresponding to the desired strap location.
Feel free to post any questions to the comments section and as always, if there is a pattern alteration topic you are interested in, let me know!
