How to Make a Half Cup Version of the Devonshire Bra

One of the best things about making your own bras is the ability to modify sewing patterns to achieve different looks and still get the same great fit.

Today, I want to show you how to adjust our Devonshire bra pattern to change the original balconette cups to a half-cup silhouette by lowering the upper cup. Depending on how low you go, this can create a very sexy look and it is also very practical for tops and dresses that have a wide open neckline, since it allows you to still wear a bra with a strap.

LEFT: a three-quarter cup (close to our current Devonshire cup) / RIGHT: a demi-cup
photo credits: left by Fantasie, right by Aubade

To create this look, you’ll need the following:

• A Devonshire bra that you have sewn up as originally designed,
• The Frame, Outer Cup, and Inner Cup pieces of the Devonshire bra pattern,
• A water soluble marking pen, like this one or chalk, and
• A straight ruler, a curved ruler and a pencil.

STEP 1
To determine the new upper cup finished line, try on your Devonshire bra and mark your new upper cup line using a water-soluble marking pen or chalk. Be sure to mark the point where the new upper cup line meets the strap as if the strap were continued down into the cup.

STEP 2
Now lay the bra with the new upper cup marking on a flat surface and measure the distance from the edge to the new location and make the corresponding mark on the outer cup pattern. STEP 3
Line up both cup pieces and the frame piece so they are aligned at the top edge at the seam line. Using a straight ruler, draw the new cup line across both cup pieces, tapering to zero at the cup to bridge seam line. Use a curved ruler to blend a new seam line from the outer cup into the frame piece.

STEP 4
Separate the pieces and adjust the trim allowance on the outer cup and frame pieces. Note, the top edge of the cups does not require seam allowance because they align with the scallops of the lace.